A Vegan Culinary Journey Through South Korea

In the heart of South Korea, where ancient traditions harmonize with modernity, lies a haven for culinary enthusiasts, including tasty vegan options, which is something of a surprise for a nation famous for meaty barbeque. Last November, I embarked on a transformative journey to discover the rich tapestry of flavours and ethical delights that South Korea has to offer in its emerging vegan culinary scene. 

Seoul, South Korea's vibrant capital, served as the starting point of my adventure. The city is a dazzling blend of cutting-edge modernity and rich history, offering a sensory overload of sights, sounds, and tastes. By day, Seoul's streets buzz with energy, while by night, the city transforms into a neon-lit wonderland. Night markets like Gwangjang and Dongdaemun come alive, teeming with food stalls offering an array of delicious dishes including vegan-friendly options. Strolling through these bustling markets, I indulged in an assortment of plant-based delicacies, from crispy vegetable pancakes to spicy tteokbokki (rice cakes). No trip to Seoul is complete without exploring its history, so I was lucky to tour the War Memorial of Korea, a poignant reminder of the nation’s tumultuous past.

My journey took me beyond Seoul to serene temples in the countryside such as Baekyangsa Temple in southwestern Jangseong. There, I met Jeong Kwan, a Zen Buddhist nun whose spirit and passion for temple food is inspiring. If Kwan’s name seems familiar to you, you might’ve seen her on Netflix’s popular Chef’s Table series. Meeting Jeong Kwan was akin to encountering a living embodiment of harmony and mindfulness. Her gentle demeanour and infectious enthusiasm for temple food, rooted in Buddhist principles, were palpable. 

Jeong Kwan shared insights into the philosophy behind temple cuisine, emphasizing its reverence for all living beings and the interconnectedness of nature. As an extra-special treat, I was part of a group that participated in assembling vegan kimchi under Jeong Kwan’s guidance. Temple food, I learned, is devoid of pungent ingredients such as onions and garlic so a monk can obtain peace and mindfulness. Every dish is meticulously crafted to nurture both body and soul, reflecting a deep respect for the Earth and its bounty. 

Beyond the temples, our culinary odyssey took us from one restaurant to another, each offering a glimpse into the rich tapestry of Korean gastronomy. From delicate lotus root salads to hearty mushroom stews, every meal was a temptation of flavours and textures. What struck me most was the simplicity of the ingredients, yet the complexity of flavours that emerged from skilled preparation and thoughtful seasoning. 

Tea experiences are also widely available across South Korea, and my standout experience was at Osulloc on Jeju Island. Jeju is also famous for the remarkable female divers, known as haenyeo or “women of the sea,” who dive without oxygen tanks, harvesting seafood in a sustainable manner, carrying on a tradition passed down through generations. 

My journey through South Korea’s cities, temples, and emerging vegan scene transcended mere culinary exploration. It invited me to embrace a more conscious way of living—one that nourishes not only the body, but also the spirit.

Tailor-made trips to South Korea

By Lori Petteplace